It’s no secret that all true foodies are now wending their way to the vibrant Caribbean archipelago of Puerto Rico, lured by the Island’s creative cuisine and inspired by its melting pot of cultures. Travellers with a taste for culinary adventure arrive to find a literal paradise, both foodie (we’re talking seriously good street food and a burgeoning high-end restaurant scene), and in terms of the stunning scenery – think winding coastal roads and verdant hillsides dotted with organic farms.
Then there are the people. Welcoming, passionate and proud, Puerto Ricans are known as Boricuas in reference to the Island’s indigenous Taíno heritage. But it’s more than that, it’s a poetic spirit that illuminates and flavours every aspect of life here – including the cuisine. And the blend of Taíno, Spanish and African cultures infuses the food scene with a culinary flair unlike that of any other Caribbean island. From mofongo – the moreish national dish of mashed plantain, to farm-to-table feasts and fine dining – plus rivers of fragrant coffee and rich, spiced rum – you’ll discover a bounty of abundance on plentiful Puerto Rico.
Sizzling Street Food
The best street food adventures start with a coastal road trip from the neighbourhood of Piñones, in Puerto Rico’s northeast. Simply hop into a hire car at Loíza (preferably a convertible for uninterrupted coastal vistas) for a delightful 45-minute drive to Luquillo, a blissful beachside town that’s proudly home to 60 (yes, 60) restaurants and street-food chinchorros (kiosks).
It’s a treasure trove of every flavour, seasoning and traditional dish you could wish for. Feast on mouthwatering, crispy fritters – including alcapurrias, a national favourite stuffed with green banana and seasoned beef, and bacalaítos – a seafood-meets-pancake, salted-cod temptation. Next up are huge platters heaped high with Puerto Rican specialities such as fried plantains, spicy rice and tender pork – a heavenly incarnation of the Afro-Caribbean heritage that underlies the irresistibly tasty cuisine. And don’t miss pinchos – skewers of tender chicken thigh marinated in Caribbean spices and grilled to perfection.
Farm-To-Table Fabulousness
With land this fertile and sunshine this frequent, it’s hardly surprising there’s an incredible farm-to-table scene in Puerto Rico. For those looking to experience this first-hand, El Pretexo (in Cayey’s scenic mountain community) is a must. The women-owned business has a verdant agroecological farming area, cosy chicken and duck coops (organic, naturally), and offers culinary pop-up experiences. However, the firm favourite with both Boricuas and travellers is the shared dinners, where guests break bread together and feast upon the home-grown fare while seated at a long, communal table with panoramic views of the Cordillera Central mountains.
Alternatively, the Frutos del Guacabo sustainable farm is roughly half an hour’s drive from San Juan, and its farm-to-fork experience involves a wander through lush crop pastures and feeding the goats, followed by a nibble on micro-greens and tangy goat’s cheese. It’s the perfect taster before you head on to more formal settings.
Coffee fiend? At Hacienda Muñoz you’ll see the very land the beans are grown on before tasting the rich, aromatic coffees they infuse. Spoiler alert: the coffee here has won the People’s Choice Award for best coffee in Puerto Rico three times. Founded in 1999, the coffee farm features a bijou restaurant, coffee shop and guided coffee tour – you can’t book, just turn up and pray that the coffee gods smile upon you.
Ridiculously Good Restaurants
The wealth of locally grown ingredients and a spread of organic wineries means Puerto Rican restaurants are popping up as easily as the (incredibly delicious) produce. Voted one of the 20 best New Restaurants in America by the James Beard Foundation in 2019, the farm-to-table restaurant Vianda is run by San Juan native and chef Francis Guzmán, and his wife Amelia. With dishes such as Salmon Silvestre in a red pepper-saffron sauce, accompanied by mofongo de plátano (that Boricua favourite) you’d be hard-pressed not to dine there.
Also near San Juan, is Oriundo. A concept of chef Martin Louzao, this culinary laboratory pays homage to Puerto Rico’s biodiversity by using forgotten ingredients (such as the ‘magpie shell’, or sea snail and hawthorn berry) in its mouth-watering menu. Monthly dinner seatings are announced on the restaurant’s Instagram— but be quick— they sell out in hours.
Next to Oriundo, you’ll find Cocina Abierta, another Martin Louzao destination. The constantly evolving menu respects traditional recipes, cherishes sustainability and is powered by a passion for food. Expect biodynamic and organic ingredients presented with flair.
1919 is another stop on any self-respecting foodie’s itinerary thanks to its Michelin-star-rated chef, Juan José Cuevas – and the elegant location – the oceanfront Condado Vanderbilt hotel. The hand-selected local produce and artisanal ingredients support local business while delighting diners with delectable concoctions such as melt-in-the-mouth ravioli stuffed with flavourful local chard and velvety suckling pig.
For an ultra-exclusive experience, visit the Epicuro Culinary Centre. You’ll take your place at one of just 12 seats that circle the open kitchen (sipping on a chilled glass of fizz), before heading on a soulful journey of Puerto-Rican food as a themed, five-course menu is expertly and passionately prepared in front of you by chef Antonio Pérez.
Rum Is The Only Drink Right Now
Welcome to the home of rum. Casa BACARDÍ opened in 1962 and was the first place the famed firm chose to produce rum outside of Cuba – no wonder this minimalist, white-washed building was christened ‘the Cathedral of Rum’ by Puerto Rico’s then-governor. Roll up today, and you can participate in a fascinating legacy tour and a guided rum tasting.
Meanwhile, perched on the grounds of an old sugar plantation, stands Hacienda Santa Ana – the HQ of local rum producer Ron del Barrilito (which translates to rum from the little barrel). The Bayamón regional company still uses the original blending and aging practices, as perfected in 1880, making this small-batch rum a favourite with the craft-cocktail movement, and tours of the old distillery end in the beautiful bar with a zingy cocktail.
Made in the town of Ponce, Don Q rum has been perfected by six generations of the Serrallés family and 150 years of craftsmanship to become the most popular rum in Puerto Rico. Here, alongside the fabulous Japanese garden and a butterfly sanctuary, you can visit the Serallés Castle Museum and learn all about the history of sugarcane and rum. As the piña colada was born in Puerto Rico, it’s a fitting end to your foodie expedition. Salud!
To learn more and book your foodie holiday to Puerto Rico, visit: www.discoverpuertorico.com
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